Naema Zaki and her five children were
forced to make the cemetery in Cairo's City of the Dead their
permanent home due to shortage of housing real estate.
Initially, they started living in the cemetery as it was an
inexpensive and a temporary way to tide over hard times. But soon
they realized they wanted to continue living there as the neighbours
were kind and loving, unlike other Cairenes. For most people, the
City of the Dead is a creepy, foreboding and mysterious area. Even
most Cairenes have little understanding about the vast maze of
cemeteries that stretch out in the base of the Moqattam Hills.
This is Cairo's el-Arafa necropolis, or
commonly known as "City of the Dead". The cemeteries are
more than 700 years old and today more than five million live amongst
the tombs. Nobody is sure on how many people live amongst the tombs.
Most of the tombs are surrounded by a walled compound, some even have
buildings and fountains. All of them have two covered stairways - one for
men and other for women - that lead to the crypts holding the remains
of extended families. Some of the tombs are marbled and maintained in
pristine condition while others are decrepit and crumbling.
Amongst these massive cemeteries lives
a community of urban poor Egyptians who has formed their own separate
society. There are 5 major cemeteries in the region : Northern
Cemetery, Bab el Nasr Cemetery, the Southern Cemetery, the Cemetery
of the Great and Bab el Wazir Cemetery. The Northern
Cemetery is undeniably creepy with dozens of mausoleums rising from
an ocean of dwellings along the Cairo Airport road. Egyptians have a
tradition of building their graves in the form of a room as a means
of spending time with their dead (some mourn the dead for 40 days).
By local standards, these are poor but decent neighbourhoods with
electricity, running water and shops.
Though these are not by means risky
quarters, it is best to exercise some caution while visiting the area.
Make sure not to flaunt your money or jewellery and dress modestly;
women are adviced to have a male escort and if possible, wear a
headscarf. In any case, leave the cemeteries before dark or you might
end up getting lost in one of the numerous labyrinthine like alleys.
Also, stay clear of the eastern part of the cemeteries which are far
riskier slums. If you are looking for cheap flight tickets to
Cairo, make sure to search multiple portals before you make your
booking. Online air ticket booking to Cairo can be done
through any of the major online travel portals.
