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Thursday, 20 February 2014

The Mystical Nubra Valley

Ladakh is amongst the most stunning spots on the Indian side of the Himalayas. Wedged between Pakistan, China , India and Tibet, Ladakh forms the eastern part of the disputed state of Jammu & Kashmir. Far north of Leh, Ladakh's capital lies a stunning piece of enclave flanked by rugged mountains which is known as Nubra Valley. Often abbreviated simply as Nubra, the region comprises of two valleys: Nubra and Shyok. The rivers of the two valleys rise amidst the remote and massive glaciers of the Karakoram Range. The Nubra and Shyok join at the region's heart,Diskit and then flows into Pakistan to join the Indus.


Locals in the region once led a prosperous life due to trans-Himalayan trade that originated with the Silk road. On a map Ladakh seem almost impenetrable thanks to towering mountains, deep valleys and sprawling hinterlands with not a soul in sight. Yet for centuries, caravans loaded with wool, opium, spices, corals, turquoise and gold negotiated several trade routes between Leh and Yarkand (China). The withering trade breathed its last in the 50s when China sealed its borders. What followed was a dark period of obscurity plagued by geo-political spasms and the area is still marked as a sensitive border.


However, of late, tourism is gradually picking up in the region with many visitors to Laddish going the extra mile to visit Nubra. The J&K SRTC and several private agencies operates bus service from Leh to Diskit and to other parts of Nubra Valley. You can do online bus tickets booking for most of them. Make sure to check multiple portals before you do your bus ticket booking.


Unfortunately, much of the famed features of Nubra remain largely out of reach for the average traveller. Case in point is the Siachen Glacier - the world's second longest glacier outside the polar regions - which is not reachable unless you embark on a full fledged expedition. Siachen was once referred to as the world's highest battlefield with India and Pakistan skirmishing in the 6000 m plus altitude glacier, but a ceasefire has been enforced since 2003. Far more interesting to the average traveller to Nubra would be the world's highest motorable road. Rising steadily out of Leh, the road passes the Khardung La pass at 5602 m and plunges into the Shyok Valley passing through khardung village, quaint hamlets and fields. Almost all of Nubra's settlement occupy land perched on the rivers.

What to See?

Over the years, Diskit has become Nubra's commercial hub and the main attraction in the village is the Diskit Gompa, a monastery perched high above the town on a ridge. The place has a cluster of prayer halls and if you arrive by dawn, you can catch the chanting and other rituals. In another hall, there stands a deity brandishing the mummified head and arm of a mongol soldier. Getting entry to this hall is a little cumbersome unless you have a Ladakhi guide with you. A narrow footpath behind the monastery leads to a ruined watchtower where you can get stunning views of the Shyok Valley.

  
About 10 km west of Diskit lies the Hunder Village. This is the perfect spot for travellers who like a laid back vibe. There is a small monastery here known as Chamba. From Hundar Village, travellers can opt for a day trip to Turok, a 90 km drive over metalled road that covers some spectacular visas. Famed for its apricots, you can stroll around the village and hang out in the gompas.
Continue up the valley and pause at Terisha Tso, a small mountain lake completely hidden by jagged ridges. There is a small shrine here which looks gorgeous under the cloudless skies. The nearby Panamik is a tourist trap and pretty much marks the end of the valley.  
  
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The Mystical Nubra Valley

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